| Anti-pick lotion | Apply to area where picking and cannibalism is occurring. |
| Anti- pick bits | Plastic bits fit in the nose holes keeps the upper and lower beak apart so they cannot pull feathers or flesh. |
| Styptic Powder-Blood Stopper Powder | Apply topically to wound to control bleeding. |
| Clorox Bleach | 1 teaspoon per gallon of water for algae in water. |
| Corid Powder (Amprolum) | 1 tsp. per gal. of water for coccidiosis in poultry for 4 days. |
| Electrolytes & Vitamins | 1tsp. per gal. of water for dehydration & sick or stressed birds to replace the electrolytes |
| Gallimycin Powder | 1 tsp. per gal. of water to treat intestinal & respiratory problems |
| Ivomec | 6 cc per gal. of water orally to control lice, mites, northern fowl mite and worms (excluding tapeworms, Cecil, capillary and flukes). |
| Levasole or Tramisol Sheep and Cattle Wormer | Crush two bolus and let soak over night then make one GALLON OF DRINKING WATER FOR YOUR FOWL. LET THEM DRINK IT FOR 2 OR 3 DAYS. I worm every month except during hatching season. It will kill the fertility for 7 to 10 days |
| Baytril | For Coryza- some call it 'bubble eye.' You have to get it from a vet. Give 1 cc down the throat for 5 days and rinse eye out with Tylan 200. |
| Tylan 200 injectable- an Antibiotic | Another for Coryza: 'bubble eye.' Give 1cc down the throat then open the eye and rinse it out with the Tylan 200 for 5 days.We do not inject our Fowl. |
| Egg Bound Hens | We take a 30cc syringe pull up about 20ccs of mineral oil into the syringe without the needle on. Lubricate the vent slowly, & insert the syringe it into the vent. Inject the mineral oil and massage the vent area. Remove the hen from the rooster. Put her in a place that is warm until she passes the egg. |
| Feed for all Fowl | We feed a 20% laying pellet all year to Chickens, Ducks, Peafowl. Fowl will eat almost any Fruits,Veggies, and Greens. |
| Treats when showing visitors your birds | Dog food, cat food, whole corn. Doing this once or twice, they will come to the fence for their treat, and visitors will be able to see them up close. |
We do not feed or water the peachicks for 48 hours.This lets NATURE TAKE ITS COURSE. The eggs' yolks will supply the moisture and nutrition that is needed for the first 72 hours.
After 72 hours, we give the peachicks mashed up boiled egg and sprinkle Vionate Vitamins as top dressing. We feed this for 2days.
Then mix in a 20% CHICK STARTER GROWER. This is fed until they are about 3 to 4 months old.
After 4 months they get switched to 20% laying feed. Our peachicks are always big and healthy.
By the 4th week, they are weaned from the heat and go into an outside brooder with heat on, in the car port. The reason we do this: in case a cold spell comes through, we can put a brooder light and cover them up.They stay here for about one month, then to the grow out cages until they are about 4 months old. From the grow out cages they go in a pen on the ground.
Once they are on the ground they are WORMED ONCE A MONTH.
When the chicks hatch in the hatchery compartments-with only eggs from one breeder pen to each compartment- we put wing bands in each wing, record the pen the eggs are out of, and the date they hatched.
The information is recorded in a book. If one dies, a red line is marked through the wing
band #. When we sell one, we use a green
marker through the wing band. A different color is used each year.
The silver band goes in the
right wing, color band in the left wing.
If we Buy or trade, we try to find out how old the peafowl is
and then wing band it.
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